kits:onewire:build
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kits:onewire:build [2019/11/30 22:16] – created James Sentman | kits:onewire:build [2023/02/13 14:52] (current) – external edit 127.0.0.1 | ||
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from left to right the kit includes:\\ | from left to right the kit includes:\\ | ||
- | **Project Enclosure: | + | * **Project Enclosure: |
- | **Circuit Board:** Depending on the hardware revision your 4 port header may be pre-soldered to the board when you receive it.\\ | + | |
- | **ESP-01:** The pre-programmed ESP-01 CPU.\\ | + | |
- | **8 pin Switching Power Supply Driver.**\\ | + | |
- | **470uf Capacitor**\\ | + | |
- | **100uf Capacitor**\\ | + | |
- | **Diode** depending on the hardware revision you may have a second diode as well.\\ | + | |
- | **470pf capacitor**\\ | + | |
- | **(2) .1uf capacitors**\\ | + | |
\\ | \\ | ||
second row:\\ | second row:\\ | ||
- | **2 pushbuttons**\\ | + | * **2 pushbuttons**\\ |
- | **3.5mm barrel jack for DC power**\\ | + | |
- | **4 pin removable header**\\ | + | |
- | **4 2.5m phillips or hex mounting screws**\\ | + | |
- | **8 pin ESP-01 mounting header**\\ | + | |
- | **220uH choke**\\ | + | |
- | **yellow or blue LED**\\ | + | |
- | **.33ohm power supply sense resistor**\\ | + | |
- | **5 more 1/4 watt resistors see below for values** | + | |
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+ | ---- | ||
====Step 1: Solder Resistors==== | ====Step 1: Solder Resistors==== | ||
This project is not meant and not setup to be a basic soldering how to. There are MANY such things on the internet. While this is a simple kit to build if you haven’t got some soldering experience you would be well served by doing some other simpler things prior to tackling this kit!\\ | This project is not meant and not setup to be a basic soldering how to. There are MANY such things on the internet. While this is a simple kit to build if you haven’t got some soldering experience you would be well served by doing some other simpler things prior to tackling this kit!\\ | ||
\\ | \\ | ||
- | There are 6 resistors included with the kit: | + | There are 6 resistors included with the kit, We can place and solder them now. |
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- | {{: | + | ---- |
- | Just to the right of the sense resistor are three more. From top to bottom they are the 3.3k resistor | + | {{: |
- | The first 2 are part of the power supply forming a voltage divider to let it sense the voltage being output to the rest of the board. The 4.7k is delivering power to the data line of the 1-wire bus if you’re running in parasitic power mode. | + | Just to the right of the sense resistor are three more. From top to bottom they are the 3.3k resistor with color bands of “Orange Orange Red Gold” and then below that the 1.8k resistor with color bands of “Brown Grey Red Gold” and lastly in this row the 4.7k resistor with bands of “Yellow Purple Red Gold.” |
To the right of those 3 are 2 more running vertically. The first is a 100 ohm resistor with color bands of “brown black brown gold” that is a current limiting resistor to the Status LED. The second is a 10 k resistor with color bands of “brown black orange” which is part of the reset circuitry of the ESP chip to make sure that it powers on properly. | To the right of those 3 are 2 more running vertically. The first is a 100 ohm resistor with color bands of “brown black brown gold” that is a current limiting resistor to the Status LED. The second is a 10 k resistor with color bands of “brown black orange” which is part of the reset circuitry of the ESP chip to make sure that it powers on properly. | ||
- | {{ : | + | ---- |
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+ | ---- | ||
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====Soldering the Resistors==== | ====Soldering the Resistors==== | ||
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If you insert the resistor and then bend the leads out to the sides it will hold the resistors in place as you turn the board over and solder them into place. | If you insert the resistor and then bend the leads out to the sides it will hold the resistors in place as you turn the board over and solder them into place. | ||
- | Again, the pictured holder for a PC board in progress is not required, but it does make the job of placing components and then soldering them in place a bit easier. Resistors are not particularly heat sensitive so take your time and make sure the solder is flowing properly into and around the connections. You should see a nice dome of solder when you’re done. A “ball” that is floating above the connection is not a good connection nor is a matt whitish flow that is sunken into the hole. If you’re seeing any of these then you should take a step back and do some basic soldering exercises or drop me an email with pictures for help. | + | The pictured holder for a PC board in progress is not required, but it does make the job of placing components and then soldering them in place a bit easier. Resistors are not particularly heat sensitive so take your time and make sure the solder is flowing properly into and around the connections. You should see a nice dome of solder when you’re done. A “ball” that is floating above the connection is not a good connection nor is a matt whitish flow that is sunken into the hole. If you’re seeing any of these then you should take a step back and do some basic soldering exercises or drop me an email with pictures for help. |
+ | |||
+ | ---- | ||
While these kits will work with leaded or lead free solder I recommend the leaded kind. It is easier for a hobbiest to work with and will last forever even if you didn’t do the best job while soldering it. I assembled my first [[https:// | While these kits will work with leaded or lead free solder I recommend the leaded kind. It is easier for a hobbiest to work with and will last forever even if you didn’t do the best job while soldering it. I assembled my first [[https:// | ||
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lead free solder requires that you work at a higher temperature which makes it more possible to damage the components you’re working on. If you are skilled at soldering then you can almost certainly work with lead free solder at least as well as you can leaded solder. If you’re a beginner leaded solder is much easier. | lead free solder requires that you work at a higher temperature which makes it more possible to damage the components you’re working on. If you are skilled at soldering then you can almost certainly work with lead free solder at least as well as you can leaded solder. If you’re a beginner leaded solder is much easier. | ||
- | When you’re done remember not to grind up your old projects and eat them. Seriously recycle them with the proper waste stream as we don’t need any more lead in the landfill improperly. I personally have no intention of recycling any of my projects in my lifetime and will hand them down to my children who will know how to deal with them or properly recycle them so I am not worried about the lead in the system. | + | When you’re done remember not to grind up your old projects and eat them. Seriously recycle them with the proper waste stream as we don’t need any more lead in the landfill improperly. I personally have no intention of recycling any of my projects in my lifetime and will hand them down to my children who will know how to deal with them or properly recycle them so I am not worried about the lead in the system. If I was selling hundreds of thousands of pre-made devices then I would use the lead free variety. For a small volume kit I think the argument for leaded solder is compelling. |
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+ | ====Step 2: Decoupling Capacitors=== | ||
+ | {{: | ||
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+ | Once placed you can gently bend the leads out to the side to hold them onto the board as you flip it over, solder them and then flush cut the wires. | ||
+ | ---- | ||
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+ | ====Step 3: Power Supply Diode and Capacitor==== | ||
+ | {{: | ||
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+ | At this point you can also add the 470pf capacitor. You’ll see it’s marked spot just above the diode. Orientation does not matter for this part. The formed leads are not perfectly sized for the holes in the board but it doesn’t matter if it hangs to one side a bit. Or you can straighten out the leads a bit and make it fit perfectly. | ||
+ | ---- | ||
+ | ====Step 4: Power Supply Driver Chip==== | ||
+ | {{ : | ||
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+ | The leads of the chip will be already formed and bent more or less into the proper orientation to fit easily into the holes on the board, but it may still be necessary to adjust them a little manually to get it to easily slip into the board. Make sure that all the leads pass through a hole. If you have to force it it’s quite possible for one of the leads to roll up under the chip and not go through a hole. | ||
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+ | This chip is the most difficult part to solder so far. The pins are close together and the device is more temperature sensitive than anything so far. As you’re soldering check to make sure that you’re not forming bridges between adjacent pins. I would also alternate soldering from one side to the other in order to keep from overheating the chip in any one spot. | ||
+ | ---- | ||
+ | ====Step 5: Finish the Power Supply==== | ||
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+ | The coil is the black shrinkwrapped device and goes into the spot labeled 220uh on the upper left of the board. It is not polarized so orientation does not matter. Bend the leads out slightly on the back to hold it in place. | ||
+ | |||
+ | There are 2 larger electrolytic capacitors to place now. **These are polarized and must be soldered in the right direction.** Please note the negative indication on the can of the capacitor and make sure to line that up with the negative marked connection on the board. On the silk screen this is labeled with a small minus sign on each side and the hole itself is square. The 470uf capacitor is yellow in the picture and the 100uf is black, but future parts may be different colors. Don’t be concerned if the lead spacing of these larger capacitors is not perfect with the hole spacing on the board. Don’t force them to be flush with the board if they don’t fit perfectly. They can float a tiny bit above the board to avoid placing too much strain on the leads as they come out of the can. Once they are placed double check the polarity, bend the leads out on the back a little bit to hold them. Turn over the board and solder them both as well as the coil then flush cut the extra leads. | ||
+ | ---- | ||
+ | ====Step 6: Add the ESP-01 Header==== | ||
+ | {{ : | ||
+ | |||
+ | If you have a revision 2 board without the green removable header pre-installed now is a good time to add that as well. You can use the same technique as with the ESP socket of holding it on one side and tacking the other in place to hold it while you properly solder the others. In this case it’s even more important to make sure you’re holding the opposite side from where you’re tacking as you’re more likely to be holding onto one of the metal pins. If you end up soldering the one you’re touching you’ll give yourself a blister fairly quickly. | ||
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+ | ---- | ||
+ | ====Step 7: Pushbuttons and Barrel Jack==== | ||
+ | {{: | ||
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+ | The barrel jack may or may not hold itself in place. If not you can do the same trick as with the headers and hold it in while tacking it in place with a little solder already on the iron. Then follow up and securely solder the remaining 2 connections and re-flow some more onto the one you tacked. This is one of the connections that can be subjected to a lot of physical force as you plug and unplug the device so make sure to make a good connection. You do not have to fill the entirety of the large holes on the board, indeed you probably shouldn’t as you risk melting the plastic of the plug. But you do need to make sure that the tabs are soldered to the edges of the holes along the entirety of their length. | ||
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+ | ---- | ||
+ | ====Step 8: Status LED==== | ||
+ | {{ : | ||
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+ | The kit will have shipped with either a yellow or blue LED though it might also be a clear case. **Orientation matters for the LED** The LED has 2 indications of polarity. The circular base of the LED itself has a flattened section that should line up with the flattened section on the silk screen of the board, but more easy to see is that one lead is longer than the other. **The longer lead should go through the square hole.** | ||
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+ | Don’t place the LED flush with the board, but rather insert it so that just a quarter inch or so is sticking out the back and then bend it forward so that it peaks out the front of the board as shown. This will make it easier to see out the bottom of the case once it’s fully put together. Once you have the LED placed to your satisfaction you can solder and flush cut the LED. | ||
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+ | Now you’re done soldering! | ||
+ | ---- | ||
+ | ====Step 9: Test the Power Supply==== | ||
+ | Now lets make sure the power supply puts out the proper voltage for the ESP chip. You’ll need a multimeter for this step set to DC volts. Plug a 5v or 12v adaptor into the barrel jack and measure the voltage between the “3.3v” pin and the “Gnd” pin on the green header. Being careful not to short the two together or either one to the Vin pin. You should measure a solid value between 3.3 and 3.7 volts. If so then you’re good to finish the assembly! If not get out your magnifying glass and search the back of the board for solder bridges and double check the orientation of the large capacitors, the diodes and the power supply driver chip. | ||
- | {{: | + | Disconnect the power adaptor before continuing! |
+ | ---- | ||
+ | ====Step 10: Install the board into the case==== | ||
+ | {{ : | ||
- | ===== | + | Once it’s properly placed you can carefully install the 4 2.5m screws that hold the board securely inside the case. These may have Philips or hex heads. Don’t over-tighten them as it is easy to strip out the plastic threads in the case posts. It is not necessary that they be any tighter than necessary to keep the board from moving around. |
+ | ---- | ||
+ | ====Step 11: Install the CPU==== | ||
+ | {{ : | ||
- | {{ : | + | Verify that you’ve got the pins lined up side to side and front to back. It is easy to accidentally install the chip with one row of pins hanging over the left or right side. |
+ | ---- | ||
+ | ====Step 12: Close The Case and Power Up!==== | ||
+ | {{: | ||
- | (this article | + | After putting the top on the case and making sure the plate at the top is properly in it’s tracks use the 2 included longer black screws |
kits/onewire/build.1575152169.txt.gz · Last modified: 2023/02/13 14:51 (external edit)